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Burnet · Burnet County

Foundation Settlement Repair Burnet, TX.

On Burnet's granite-and-limestone terrain, a slab rarely sinks all at once, one corner drops onto a soft pocket while the rest holds. We drive galvanized steel piers past that thin, uneven soil to bedrock and bring the floor back toward plane.

Why settlement in Burnet looks lopsided

Burnet sits in the Hill Country transition zone, and the ground under a typical foundation here is anything but consistent. You might have a few inches of sandy loam or decomposed granite in one corner of the lot and limestone almost at grade fifty feet away. Wherever a builder had to cut and regrade, there's usually a pocket of clay-rich fill on top of that uneven rock. The result is differential movement: a slab drops in one spot while the rest stays put, instead of the whole-house subsidence people associate with the deep Blackland clays farther east.

That irregular bearing is also why the cracks point a certain way. When a footing straddles the line between competent limestone and softer weathered material, the slab racks rather than settles flat, so you get diagonal cracks running off window and door corners, a jamb that suddenly binds, and in pier-and-beam homes a center-of-the-house dip where the beam spans are longest and the original soil contact was always the most variable.

The drivers are different here, too. In clay country the story is swell-and-shrink with moisture. On Burnet's rockier ground the usual culprits are footings that never reached competent bearing, thin soil columns eroding out from around the footings, and uncompacted fill slowly collapsing over the uneven rock below.

Steel piers to bedrock, and why the pier type matters here

Decomposed granite grus, weathered granite that crumbles into sand-sized grit, feels solid when you stand on it but has almost no cohesion under sustained load. A footing or a layer of fill resting on grus instead of reaching the rock underneath will keep creeping. That's the failure mode we're built to stop.

Our fix is galvanized steel piers driven hydraulically, under the actual weight of your house, until they hit refusal in the dense limestone or granite below the active soil zone. The distinction from pressed-concrete piers is real on this terrain: a pressed pier can seat early on a buried cobble or a shallow caliche lens and read as 'done' while the soil around it keeps shifting. A steel pier advancing to hydraulic refusal under the building's own load gives independent proof the tip reached material that can actually carry the weight.

Because those piers terminate in rock rather than soil, the supported sections don't ride the wet-and-dry seasons anymore, which is exactly what the lifetime, fully transferable warranty stands behind. Most homes stay occupied throughout, and the typical Burnet project lands between $4,500 and $14,000 depending on pier count, access, and drainage.

How a Burnet settlement repair actually goes

01

Free elevation survey to 1/64 in.

We map the whole slab to within ±0.01 in. (1/64 in.) and build a contour so the plan targets the genuinely low zones, not just wherever a crack happened to surface.

02

Engineer-backed pier plan

Pier count and spacing are set to a structural spec for your home and the rock under it, then written up so you can see the rationale before anyone breaks ground.

03

Drive, lift, and lock onto steel

Each pier is driven to refusal in competent bedrock, the slab is raised toward its original plane, and the load is transferred off the soil and onto the steel.

04

Re-survey and warranty

We shoot the elevations again, document the corrected grade, and leave you with the lifetime transferable warranty in writing.

Signs the ground under your slab is giving way

On Burnet's uneven bearing, these tend to show up in a single area before they spread, catch them early and the pier count is usually small:

  • A visibly low corner, or a floor that slopes or feels bouncy toward one side of a room
  • Diagonal, stair-step cracks above doors and windows or in the exterior brick
  • Interior doors that have slowly gotten harder to latch over two or three seasons
  • A gap opening where the wall or trim meets the ceiling
  • Cracks in the slab itself, often near the garage or a center beam line
  • New cracking that appears after a baking-hot summer is broken by heavy spring rain

Manage the water before, and after, the piers go in

Even on rocky lots, water pooling against the stem wall saturates whatever thin soil exists and undermines the bearing. Aim for at least six inches of fall over the first ten feet away from the house, and run downspouts to discharge four feet or more beyond the foundation.

Where it genuinely protects the repair, we'll pair the piers with drainage correction, never as an upsell, only where the survey shows water is part of the problem.

Questions Burnet homeowners ask us

My house is on granite, do I really need piers at all?
Often the rock is the problem, not the solution. Granite weathers into grus that compresses under load, and the bedrock surface itself rises and falls across a lot, so footings end up bearing at different depths. Piers driven to a consistent competent stratum are what stops the differential movement that uneven rock creates.
Why steel piers instead of the pressed-concrete ones another company quoted?
On this terrain pressed piers can stop short, seating on a cobble or a caliche lens while the soil around them keeps moving. Hydraulic steel piers advance under your home's actual weight to refusal in real bedrock, so you get verified bearing rather than a temporary resistance reading.
There's just one corner dropping. Is that worth fixing now?
A single sinking corner is a bearing failure, and on Burnet's uneven soils it almost always keeps going. Caught early it's frequently a handful of piers; left alone it racks the doors, floors, and brick across the whole side of the house and the scope grows.
How accurate is the free survey, and what do I get from it?
We measure slab elevation to ±0.01 in. (1/64 in.) and turn it into a contour map showing your high and low points. That tells an engineer whether the movement is active or old news, and sets the exact pier count and spacing before you ever see a price.
What will this cost, and can I finance it?
Most Burnet steel-pier projects run about $4,500 to $14,000 depending on how many piers, how hard the access is, and whether drainage is involved. Financing is available so it can be paid over time, with the plans included alongside your written, measured estimate.
How is settlement different from heave, and why does it matter?
Settlement is the slab dropping where soil shrinks, erodes, or compresses, the common pattern here. Heave is the slab pushing up where clay swells. The survey tells them apart because the repair is genuinely different, and guessing wrong wastes money.
Once you pier it, can it settle again?
The piered sections sit on steel below the active soil, so they shouldn't ride the seasons anymore, that's what the lifetime transferable warranty covers. Areas that weren't piered can still move, which is why we look hard at drainage as part of the job.
Will a documented repair help or hurt me when I sell?
A repair with a transferable lifetime warranty is usually a selling point, because it removes a buyer's biggest unknown. What actually scares buyers off is an open, disclosed foundation issue, not one that's been fixed and papered with engineer-backed documentation.
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