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County hub · seat: Boerne

Foundation repair Kendall County.

Boerne sits almost exactly on the Balcones Escarpment, where Hill Country limestone gives way to deep prairie clay, so two very different foundation problems exist within a few miles of the same courthouse. GroundLock reads which one is under your home before driving a single pier.

Two counties in one, geologically

Drive west from downtown Boerne and you're on thin residual soil over Edwards Group limestone. Bedrock is sometimes within reach of a shovel. Drive east toward the Cibolo and Guadalupe drainages and you're on Houston Black clay with plasticity indices that commonly run 40 to 60.

Those two settings fail in opposite ways, and the fix for one is wrong for the other. That's why we measure first and quote second.

Why the east side of Boerne moves more than the west

On the clay side of the escarpment, much of the IH-10 east corridor and the creek bottoms, the active zone runs roughly 6 to 10 feet below grade. That's the depth where seasonal wet-dry swings actually change the soil's volume. After a long drought the boundary can sink deeper. A slab sitting in that zone is essentially riding a material that swells in spring and shrinks in August, and the two halves rarely move in step.

The tell is center-lift distortion: interior soil stays damp while perimeter edges dry and drop, so doors near the middle of the house start sticking, floors feel slightly humped, and diagonal cracks climb from window corners toward the ceiling. People assume the slab is sinking. Usually it's the opposite, the edges fell and the center stayed put.

West of the line it's a different story. Homes near a limestone outcrop can show irregular, roughly parallel cracking that follows joints in the rock rather than the classic heave pattern, a sign of differential bedrock settlement or void development, not clay swell. Same county, completely different diagnosis.

What an honest evaluation here looks at

A Kendall County inspection that's worth your time covers more than the cracks you can already see:

  • A full elevation map. We survey the whole footprint to ±0.01 in. (1/64 in.) so the plan targets the real low spots instead of the spots where cracks happen to surface.
  • Drainage slope. Grade should fall at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet from the house. Flat or back-pitched yards in the clay zone keep re-wetting one side and can undo a repair in a single wet season, drainage work often belongs in the same scope.
  • Trees against the slab. Live oaks, cedar elms, and Ashe juniper pull moisture hard in summer; roots under a slab create a dry pocket that drops one corner even when the rest of the yard looks green.
  • Build age and pad quality. A lot of subdivision homes along IH-10 and US-87 were set on minimally engineered fill that assumed soil the Houston Black clay never agreed to be. They tend to show distress at 7 to 15 years old.
  • Crack character, not just count. Stair-step brick cracks and openings racked out of square matter; a hairline in the drywall usually doesn't. We separate cosmetic settling from structural movement so you don't over- or under-repair.

How we stabilize on both sides of the escarpment

GroundLock drives galvanized steel piers hydraulically through the active soil and down to genuinely load-bearing strata, and where the geology allows, into or against the limestone beneath. A steel pier holds because of what it lands on, not the dirt wrapped around its shaft, so the terminal depth is whatever it takes to reach refusal.

That depth swings widely across Kendall County. Near a shallow Edwards outcrop we may hit competent rock at 12 to 18 feet; out in the deeper clay near Welfare or Comfort, stable material can sit 25 feet or more down. The elevation survey tells us which segments of the slab are actually moving, so we space piers to the problem instead of stamping a generic pattern around the perimeter.

Most Kendall County homes, and commercial buildings, stay occupied while we work, since crews operate from the exterior and access points. Typical projects land between $4,500 and $14,000, the work carries a lifetime transferable warranty, and financing is available so it doesn't have to be paid all at once.

Kendall County foundation questions

My house is east of IH-10 near Boerne, is that worse for foundations than the west side?
Generally the movement is more pronounced there, yes. East of the escarpment you're on expansive Houston Black clay that swells and shrinks with the seasons. West, on thin soil over Edwards limestone, the issue is more about shallow or uneven bedrock. Neither is hopeless, they just call for different pier depths and different inspection eyes.
Why are the doors in the middle of my house sticking but the outside walls look fine?
That's the signature pattern on the clay here: center-lift. The perimeter soil dries and the edges drop while the interior stays damp and elevated, so interior doors bind and the floor feels slightly humped. It reads like the house is sinking in the middle, but it's really the edges that fell.
We're up on a limestone shelf, do we even need piers?
Sometimes the answer is no, or only in spots. Limestone-zone homes can crack along the rock's natural joints rather than from clay swell, which is a different problem. We map the elevations and read the crack pattern before recommending anything. We won't drive piers you don't need into bedrock that isn't moving.
How deep will the steel piers actually go on my lot?
To refusal on load-bearing strata. Not a set number. Near a shallow Edwards outcrop that can be 12 to 18 feet; in the deeper clay toward Welfare or Comfort it may be 25 feet or more. The piers stop when they stop moving under hydraulic pressure, so the depth follows your specific soil.
The cracks got worse after last summer's drought, is that normal?
On this clay, drought is exactly when corners drop. The active zone dries out 6 to 10 feet down and the soil contracts away from the slab edges. Some seasonal movement and a few hairlines are routine; progressive, one-sided movement and stair-step brick cracks are the ones that warrant a measured look.
There's a big live oak right next to the slab. Could that be the cause?
It can be a real factor. Live oaks, cedar elms, and Ashe juniper draw moisture aggressively in summer, and roots under the slab create a localized dry pocket that drops that corner even when the rest of the yard is watered. We note tree position during the survey and factor it into both the repair and the prevention plan.
Our subdivision is only about ten years old, too soon for foundation trouble?
Not in this soil. A lot of newer homes along the IH-10 and US-87 corridors sit on minimally engineered fill pads, and 7 to 15 years is right when cumulative seasonal movement starts showing as distress. New construction is no guarantee against clay that swells.
Will fixing the foundation help when we sell? Boerne turns over fast.
It usually helps. With so many San Antonio and Austin commuters buying here, a documented repair backed by a transferable lifetime warranty removes a buyer's biggest unknown. What scares buyers off is a disclosed, unaddressed problem, not a fixed one. Pressed-concrete pier work, with its re-settlement history, can't offer the same assurance.
How do I keep this from coming back after the repair?
Keep the soil moisture steady. Get grade and gutters carrying water away from the slab, and during drought run a soaker hose 18 to 24 inches out from the foundation so the clay doesn't shrink and drop a corner. Where the yard fights you, we'll fix the grading and drainage or add erosion control as part of the job.
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